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​WHAT IS Yuzen?

Yuzen dyeing is a kimono dyeing technique invented by Miyazaki Yuzenzai, a Kyoto fan painter in the Edo period. Kimonos dyed with yuzen dye are also called "Yuzen". Yuzen is a Japanese resist dyeing technique where dyes are applied inside outlines of dyed or undyed rice-paste resist, which may be drawn freehand or stencilled; the paste keeps the dye areas separated.There are too many types of yuzen to list here. This is because each craftsman has an infinite number of ways to express himself, combining multiple dyeing methods or using unique techniques that have been handed down from generation to generation. In addition, it is said that miraculous masterpieces are sometimes created by a combination of long-cultivated experience and coincidence. "Hand-painted yuzen" is a dyeing process in which the patterns are drawn by the hands of craftsmen one by one without soaking the fabric in paint. There are two main types. The other is katazome (stencil dyeing), in which the pattern is dyed using a mold with the pattern dug into it. Also, there are the following characteristics depending on the region.
Kyo-yuzen (Kyoto): Gorgeous gold and silver leaf and embroidery with gorgeous patterned designs. Preferred by princesses of court nobles and wives of feudal lords.
Kaga Yuzen (Ishikawa): Painting-style patterns centering on realistic flower and grass patterns with a calm atmosphere. Preferred by samurai families.
Tokyo hand-painted yuzen (Tokyo): Austere colors, but with an urban sense of style and stylishness. Preferred by the townspeople. Buki Dyeing Dyeing by hand with a brush in a single color is called "tuki-dyeing. It requires considerable skill and experience to dye uniformly. There is also a technique to intentionally create a gradation of shades of gray. Kaki-age Yuzen This is the process of drawing directly on the fabric with a brush, without using glue threads. In the case of striped patterns such as the one in the image, the brush tip is used carefully to avoid the lines being too strong or too weak. The precision of the brushwork is so precise that it is hard to believe that it was done by hand, but you can feel the skill and warmth of the artisans who put their heart into each line. ​ Kata Yuzen, katazome This is a dyeing method that uses several types of katagami to create meticulous and exotic chintz patterns (mainly plant and geometric patterns). The katagami may be made by the dyer himself or by a specialized engraver. The precisely matched patterns must be carefully stored in water to prevent them from being distorted by stretching and shrinking. The "star" is placed by looking at the needle-hole markings on the fabric, and the paint is evenly applied with a round brush. It is a patient process. Depending on the pattern, as many as 30 molds may be used for a single piece. The more sheets are used, the finer the pattern becomes.

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