Story of Nishijin, Hyakka & Yujinart
Japan is a fascinating country, with its unique civilization. One of the countries to manage, preserve and keep alive ancestral traditions, arts and crafts, in many fields. Many have heard of origami, ikebana, tea ceremony, Zen, bushido, kabuki, noh, kimono, sake, geisha, just to name a few. The resilience and widespread recognition of Japanese art forms probably come from Japanese unique search for perfection combined with the ability to see and create beauty in all things.
Weaving techniques were introduced to Japan around the Yayoi period (300 BCE to 300 CE), and textile manufacturing in Kyoto area is documented from the 5th century, even before the construction of Heian-kyo (the previous name of Kyoto) by Emperor Kanmu.
Nishijin-ori brocades, Japanese Jacquard type brocades feature highly complex patterns – including intricate designs, motifs and textures, all woven directly into the textile while it’s being weaved – have been used for more than 1200 years.
In ancient Japan, warfare played a significant role in shaping the country's history and societal structures. From the early periods of clan conflicts to the emergence of centralized authority, war was a constant feature of Japanese life. Battles were often fought over territory, resources, and political power, and they influenced the rise and fall of various ruling families and factions. Pivotal conflicts like the Genpei War (1180-1185) led to the rise of Samurai Rule, and another war, the Onin War (1467-1477) is at the origin of brocade weaving. When this war ended, textile craftsmen returned to the west part of Kyoto, why the brocade is referred, “nishi/west and jin/territory”. Since then, Nishijin-ori weavers have tirelessly continued their craft, showcasing tremendous dedication, effort, originality to create beauty, blending technology with tradition and creativity.
In recognition of over 1200 years of unbroken history, Nishijin-ori was formally recognized as ‘National Traditional Craft’ on February 26, 1976.
HYAKKA / 百華 (KINU pic)
In the face of Japan’s industrialization and the preference for mass production of standardized items, women upheld the ancient craft of Nishijin-ori with pride. Hyakka was founded by one of these amazing women Kinu Kameda in 1927 in Asakusa district of the "new" capital, Tokyo. Hyakka means “a hundred flowers” 百/hyaku/hundred and 華 /ka/flower.
Hyakka, originally started as the producer of Japanese kimekomi dolls, and mastering it to its highest-quality products, the company changed its business strategy from an in-house doll making to a designer of unique dolls and a provider of the doll-making-material-kit to over 400 doll maker artisans throughout Japan. The kits include most delicate dolls’ head with quality face expressions, the base-body, a number of high-quality brocades and the assembly instructions. To be the best provider in the field, the founder started collecting the best of Kyoto Nishinjin-ori brocades. That brings to today, owning one of the biggest collectors of high-quality vintage Nishinjin-ori brocades.
YUJINART
Kinu Kameda’s great-granddaughter, Yu Hatori, the 4th generation of the family to operate the business, within Hyakka launched a new brand, Yujinart. Yu needed to yet make another business strategy change, for the company to be a provider of quality brocades, to be used in other applications, such as in interior decorating and even to modern/western apparel industries. Applications of which are limitless. Inheriting the Nishijin-ori inventory/collection of over 100-year-old vintage, one-of-a-kind, nowhere else to be found brocades, partnering/collaborating with artisans, designers and creators worldwide to infuse modernity with Nishijin-ori brocade products and to preserve the tradition of these magnificent brocades’ use. Nishijin-ori brocades which were intended for kimonos and their obis/sashes/belts to be applied for cushions, framed, canvas to add paintings, or used as delicate fabric for outstanding fashion or interior design anywhere in everyday living. Every yard/meter of Nishijin-ori brocade, whether vintage or specially commissioned, will be a perfect and authentic addition to any project.
NISHIJIN TREND (model pic from PDF)
Nishijin-ori brocades are highly renowned and sought after. Major luxury brands such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton have established partnerships with Nishijin-ori manufacturers in Japan. Leaders of the hospitality industry including The Ritz-Carlton and Bulgari Hotels also incorporate Nishijin-ori brocades into their interior design. Today’s art direction in Luxury Hotels and Residences is mostly focused on quiet, minimalist harmonies also referred to as Japanese Modern Harmony.
Zen aesthetics are famous and used as inspiration all over the world. There is another side of Japanese traditional esthetics that people are not overly familiar with Japan are amazed to discover, a strikingly vibrant, colorful, playful realm of creations that contribute to making Japanese motif dazzling and appealing worldwide.